Books, coffee and lounging

Two days ago, I spent a rather lovely late morning among books, coffee and a serious lounge.

I visited the Oxford bookshop and cafe in Connaught Place, in the heart of Delhi. It's an area which is built in a circle with radial roads set off it, containing office buildings, apartments, shops, restaurants and cafes. Built in the 1930s, it has been a ’hot spot' for Delhites, fashionable and modest. For visiting tourists a visit to the area was a must. Over a period of time, as other smarter places came up, Connaught Place declined. Landlords lost interest in their properties as tenants (in the properties for years) refused to pay increased rents or move out. The place began to look run down and unappealing.

My husband is rather attached to Connaught Place. I did not grow up in New Delhi, and while my visits to the city did include Connaught Place, it doesn't have the same meaning for me (i.e. no nostalgia!). However, with the economy on the upswing, Connaught Place is going to get a face life. Plans are afoot to make it a real 'hot spot', and bring back some of the old glory, in a new way. Some of the work began several years ago when the underground Metro had a stop in Connaught Place.

One of the historical and classic buildings in Connaught Place is Statesman House. The Statesman is a English language paper which enjoyed a solid reputation before the introduction of highly commercial mainstream dailies of today. A few years ago, the owners decided to renovate the building, as it was in a major state of disrepair. Some of us applauded; others attached to the building, protested. Finally, the renovation went through, but, with the facade of the building being retained.

One of the highlights of the newly renovated building was a bookshop called the Oxford Bookshop, which boasted a cafe. I had heard of it, and been invited to many book launches and readings. But, I only got myself there two days ago.

Entering the area around the building there are signs for the bookshop, which itself is on the top of the UTI Bank. A curved staircase goes up from the ground floor to a large open space, with an open garden. The bookshop entrance opens into an interior with a bright red and white decor, and a great deal of real and artificial light. The architecture is sharp, with curves and colours, large glass windows that allow the atmosphere of Connaught Place to come in. The cafe, which is to the left as you enter, has comfortable chairs and tables, a red lounge sofa, and an antique chest sitting regally on a large red/orange kilim.

After walking around to get a flavour of the place, I ordered a cappuccino, and sat down. I soon lost myself in books on homes, gardens, inner and outer spaces. I was excited, getting ideas about what I could do at home, with the space, artifacts, plants etc. I watched people come and go - young and old, stylish and regular. I took some photographs. The waiters were young and friendly. Conversations veered from the light to the serious. The range of books was limited, and their arrangement a little pedestrian. It has a Barnes and Noble feel to it. I felt the bookshop could use a touch of someone who loved books. But, they tried.

My selection of books? Digging to America by Anne Tyler, The Folk Songs of Southern India (a book first published in 1871 and re-issued in 2002), Temptations of the West by Pankaj Mishra, and In Black and White, a biography of the very talented Indian painter Manjit Bawa (and a favourite of mine).

As I left with my bag of books, I was pleased. The Oxford Bookshop is one of the few in the city that has a cafe. There are cafes with a cut-out area called a bookshop, but they are lack soul. As a lover of books, coffee and lounging, I eagerly look forward to more such spaces.

But, for the time being, the Oxford Bookshop is a good place to go - for a browse, to meet a friend over coffee, tea and snacks, or simply, just to lounge and enjoy a view of Connaught Place.